No, the sound distortion only affected the first batch of +3s. Unfortunately mine is one of them, although when connected through a RGB-to-SCART cable the fault is, I guess, less noticeable than with RF connection. +2As do not suffer from it. I own two +2As which sound output is crystal clear, and no one here who also owns +2As ever reported of such a problem.
On the other hand, the +2A (and the +3 as well) shows incompatibility problems with a noticeable number of software titles, but ongoing research starting last year has done a lot to find alternative, working versions or to produce unofficial "fixes".
It is true instead that the +2A and the +3 share the same kind of power supply unit - the only difference being the writings "Sinclair +2" and "Sinclair +3" on them.
No, the sound distortion only affected the first batch of +3s. Unfortunately mine is one of them, although when connected through a RGB-to-SCART cable the fault is, I guess, less noticeable than with RF connection. +2As do not suffer from it. I own two +2As which sound output is crystal clear, and no one here who also owns +2As ever reported of such a problem.
On the other hand, the +2A (and the +3 as well) shows incompatibility problems with a noticeable number of software titles, but ongoing research starting last year has done a lot to find alternative, working versions or to produce unofficial "fixes".
It is true instead that the +2A and the +3 share the same kind of power supply unit - the only difference being the writings "Sinclair +2" and "Sinclair +3" on them.
Thanks for letting me know I just changed my post in what i want then.
That's strange. Moreover, it seems that not a few 128s (including my own) have the AY volume slightly - or in some cases noticeably - lower than that of the beeper. +2As are more balanced.
Most of them are like that, unfortunately. You can work on it by putting a variable resistor across the resistor which joins the AY output to the beeper output, and then dial it to the best balance. If you make the AY sound too loud, though, the beeper sound starts to get dull and then distorts, so you need a compromise.
I did this on a +2 (grey) though and it worked very well - just on the toastrack did it not work so well.
Incidentally, if you use RF rather than the MIC socket, you get the sound well balanced anyway!
Incidentally, if you use RF rather than the MIC socket, you get the sound well balanced anyway!
I can't do that because I connect it to a LCD/LED TV through a RGB-to-SCART cable coming with a 3.5 jack for the MIC socket :( Oh well... I guess there should be some compromise when you are using 27-year-old hardware...
I have 2 48K machines and a +3. Regarding compatibility, I have always found the +3 to be awkward (I've had 2 in my time). Even game sthat are meant to be compatible often don't seem to load, even in the mode for which they were intended.
I have had countless games supposedly +3 compatible fail to load on my +3, but they all load first time and every time on a Rubber key speccy. Maybe the +3 is just really fussy about volume or the tape port is a bit dud or something?
I have 2 48K machines and a +3. Regarding compatibility, I have always found the +3 to be awkward (I've had 2 in my time). Even game sthat are meant to be compatible often don't seem to load, even in the mode for which they were intended.
On the other hand, the +2A (and the +3 as well) shows incompatibility problems with a noticeable number of software titles, but ongoing research starting last year has done a lot to find alternative, working versions or to produce unofficial "fixes".
I have had countless games supposedly +3 compatible fail to load on my +3, but they all load first time and every time on a Rubber key speccy. Maybe the +3 is just really fussy about volume or the tape port is a bit dud or something?
Well, the tape port of the +3 is a bit fiddly sometimes; my experience shows that in these cases, to get data being properly fed into the machine you must not insert the jack in it entirely but leave a fraction of the jack itself outside.
Yes I've seen your great efforts on th eother thread, it's really great. The only problem is my +3's reluctance to load much by tape. I'll try your idea next time I set it up.
Comments
I heard the one +2 (I think its the +2A) has bad sound on it like the +3.
Its the one with the really big power supply like the +3.
On the other hand, the +2A (and the +3 as well) shows incompatibility problems with a noticeable number of software titles, but ongoing research starting last year has done a lot to find alternative, working versions or to produce unofficial "fixes".
It is true instead that the +2A and the +3 share the same kind of power supply unit - the only difference being the writings "Sinclair +2" and "Sinclair +3" on them.
Thanks for letting me know I just changed my post in what i want then.
I was surprised, too. I need to look into it more, but it certainly was nowhere near as good as a toastrack.
You're a lot safer with a +2A than a +3, though, for sure.
I did this on a +2 (grey) though and it worked very well - just on the toastrack did it not work so well.
Incidentally, if you use RF rather than the MIC socket, you get the sound well balanced anyway!
I have had countless games supposedly +3 compatible fail to load on my +3, but they all load first time and every time on a Rubber key speccy. Maybe the +3 is just really fussy about volume or the tape port is a bit dud or something?