s-video Success
Having tried the various composite video fixes for the +3 etc, I was left feeling a little cold at the results, and was about to give up my quest for a decent image. That was until I found this site http://www.nexusuk.org/projects/rgb2svid/notes.php which contains all the details needed to construct an RGB to s-video converter.
Needless to say I went straight to work and constructed the interface (minus the LM1881), and the result is very impressive, not as clear as RGB of course but still 400% on RF video and at least 200% on the composite interfaces I'd built earlier.
You can find the schematic and PCB layout (Eagle CAD) I made here http://www.dasteph.com/svideo.zip The PCB fits comfortably inside my +2a and you should be able to find room in a +3 for it.
Obtain the RGB signals from the base of the Peritel connector.
CYNC should come from below resistor R34. (the signal at the Peritel is to weak)
Ground and +5v can be obtained from 2 VIA's next to the power connector.
The design also allows for a composite signal, just in case you want it.
I'll make some pics available if anybodies interested, once I find my digital camera.
[ This Message was edited by: dasteph on 2004-04-12 17:30 ]
[ This Message was edited by: dasteph on 2004-04-12 18:11 ]
Needless to say I went straight to work and constructed the interface (minus the LM1881), and the result is very impressive, not as clear as RGB of course but still 400% on RF video and at least 200% on the composite interfaces I'd built earlier.
You can find the schematic and PCB layout (Eagle CAD) I made here http://www.dasteph.com/svideo.zip The PCB fits comfortably inside my +2a and you should be able to find room in a +3 for it.
Obtain the RGB signals from the base of the Peritel connector.
CYNC should come from below resistor R34. (the signal at the Peritel is to weak)
Ground and +5v can be obtained from 2 VIA's next to the power connector.
The design also allows for a composite signal, just in case you want it.
I'll make some pics available if anybodies interested, once I find my digital camera.
[ This Message was edited by: dasteph on 2004-04-12 17:30 ]
[ This Message was edited by: dasteph on 2004-04-12 18:11 ]
Post edited by dasteph on
Comments
[ This Message was edited by: dasteph on 2004-04-14 15:18 ]
http://www.dasteph.com/svidschea.jpg
New design has better filtering, and also works on russian clones. Device still needs to internal, but I'll post an external version latter.
Cheers,
Anestis
ADJB
http://www.dasteph.com/zx2a/files/
Some notes
Follow the same instructions as previously mention above installation.
C1, C2 and C3 are mains metallised polypropylene capacitors (image is everything), I found these to give the cleanest results. These could be replaced with high quality Green Caps is pushed.
C19 is the most obvious change in the design, it's there to filter power waves, not so noticeable with the standard +2a wall wort, but if your using a modified old AT supply or similar its a must.
I have tried to get an external version to work, but I've only had limited success, it all seems to come down to a problem with the csync signal provided at the Peritel connector. So unfortunately it's an inside job only.
Good Luck to anybody who builds it.
_________________
Add a dab of lavender to milk, leave town with an orange and pretend your laughing at it.
[ This Message was edited by: dasteph on 2005-04-21 14:53 ]
Just an Idea, and it's probably been sugested before, but couldn't your interface include some kind of booster/preamp, to bring the Peritel Csync signal up to a higher level for RGB?
I don't actually know much about how Peritel/RGB work, as I have only so far ever used RF or Composite.
I have trouble with RF interference from PSUs in my room, so I would be very interested in building this interface, but only as an external interface, as I only have one speccy, and I don't want to blow it up (again!)
[ This Message was edited by: guesser on 2005-04-21 16:43 ]
Personally I wouldn't to be afraid to build an internal adapter. None of the signals used go back to the ULA or anything like that, so it would be pretty near impossible to kill your Spectrum, as long as you solder in the right places.