Help with dead Spectrum +2a
Hello.
My Spectrum +2a died some time ago. It was powered on, I looked away and next time I looked at it, screen was black. I have replaced the 4 ram ICs, Z80 and ROM ICs from a working one, and that does not help. Also PSU seems to be ok, cause my second +2a is working.
The red power led is working and screen is steady black when I power on the machine.
Has anyone idead where to start replacing the components? I have fixed 48k by replacing a transistor, could this be as simple? There is much less documentation on fixing +2a/+3s compared to 48k.
Timppa
My Spectrum +2a died some time ago. It was powered on, I looked away and next time I looked at it, screen was black. I have replaced the 4 ram ICs, Z80 and ROM ICs from a working one, and that does not help. Also PSU seems to be ok, cause my second +2a is working.
The red power led is working and screen is steady black when I power on the machine.
Has anyone idead where to start replacing the components? I have fixed 48k by replacing a transistor, could this be as simple? There is much less documentation on fixing +2a/+3s compared to 48k.
Timppa
Post edited by Timppa on
Comments
Thanks for you comments.
Timppa
http://www.worldofspectrum.org/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=5244&forum=4
When you say the screen is steady black, do you mean the Spectrum screen (i.e. a white border around a black paper) or do you mean that when you turn it on the entire screen turns black?
I presume you've tried retuning the telly slightly. :)
Usually in my experience when the screen is black, it means there's a power sink somewhere, usually a RAM chip, which is lowering the +5V to less than it should be (about 1-2V commonly), thus preventing the ULA or anything else from producing any picture. Have you tried with a different ULA? Remember, don't put a good ULA into your dead Speccy as there may be other problems - put your suspect ULA into a good Speccy and see if it breaks (if it does, switch it back again!).
Check your power lines +5V and ground - I don't recall you needing the other lines on a +2A. Are you sure the machine isn't working? Have you tried connecting a speaker to the sound output to see if anything happens when you press a key (it should click if it's in the menu).
If you have access to an EPROM burner it may be worth your burning my ROM (see my other "anyone want a Speccy repaired?" thread for more info) and using that - I've not tested it on anything other than a 48K but it should work. Just remember to leech the CS and OE lines correctly.. they're in a different place on EPROMs.
Either way, a completely black screen from a composite video source means your ULA isn't working or you've got a grounding problem on your video signal, almost guaranteed.
Let us know what you try and how you get on!
Yes, I have a second working +2a: PSU and telly are just fine.
I have swapped bot roms, all 4 memory ICs, Z80A and keyboard. I measured PIN 6 on TEA2000 (as Fraser told to do) and on a working +2a there is voltage, but on dead one pin is 0V. This is at least some evidence. I have not dared to unsolder TEA2000 away from the working one to test with it.
How do I change ULA on +2a?
I will give it a try. I have just bought EPROM burner to change +2a to +3e and also to try modified ROMS on 48k.
Thanks for your comments. If someone has extra TEA2000 chip, I would like to get one to go on.
Timppa
[ This Message was edited by: Timppa on 2005-07-19 13:32 ]
[ This Message was edited by: Timppa on 2005-07-19 13:32 ]
To be honest I know very little about +2As - I don't have one. I assume the ULA is just a chip on the board but I could be wrong.
Looking at the datasheet for this chip (www.secarica.ro/tea2000.pdf) it shows that your modulator etc. is probably fine, it's just that the TEA2000 is giving out no info. Hence the next thing to look at is the inputs and power lines on the chip. You should have +0V on pin 9, Vcc on pin 11 (I imagine +5V but I don't know), and pins 18 and 1-5 should all have some voltage I would imagine, as I should think the Spectrum's white screen would require voltage on each of the RGB pins. If you have an oscilloscope check with that too. An oscilloscope would be particularly useful for checking pins 12 and 13 which should be 8.86MHz.
Do all those pins check out?
The ULA on a +2a, is (going to sound odd to anybody who hasn't seen it) suspended in a cutout on PCB, with pins connected to both sides of the board. Kind of cool to look at, but certainly a bitch to replace.
[ This Message was edited by: dasteph on 2005-07-19 22:26 ]
Ah, I think I see what you mean. In which case, do everything you can to be sure it is the ULA before replacing it... and that's of course assuming you can find a replacement!
Without seeing a +2A I can't really comment but I would imagine it's possible to solder in a replacement, but you'd have to hack the connections in somewhat. I had similar fun repairing an Interface 1 (fitting a low profile surface mount chip in a DIP 14 socket is an interesting experience, believe me!)
Edit: Just seen a picture... looks like it has 6,000,000 pins on it! If the ULA is dead I suspect you have no way of resurrecting it... not practically speaking, anyway. Best just hope it's not your ULA!
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Ian Gledhill
www.retroreview.com
[email="IanG@+nospam.+amiganet.org"]IanG@+nospam.+amiganet.org[/email] (remove text between plus'es!)
[ This Message was edited by: Spirantho on 2005-07-20 10:14 ]