I was sure my fridge had died earlier, just after we filled it up.
Checked fuse, that was OK, didn't know what else to try. Then after about 5 mins of looking at it, it started whirring. Turned out the bulb had gone. Was a huge relief.
Hope yours is something simple. Does it just not work?
if the motor is fecked, its costs about the same to get it replaced as would a new fridge.
if its leaking water, it might be a build up of condensation, try turning it down.
other than that, have a look on youtube for fixes, or the whirlpool site, even a repair man over the phone might be able to give you a quote, they have done for me in the past.
It's working, but I want it to get even colder. I like the beer best when it's almost frozen.
I know that there is an internal screw for adjusting the "preset" of the thermostat, but I cannot figure out how to open the housing to get access to it.
The fridge is a brand new Whirlpool ARC1224.
Here's a pic of the housing:
It's working, but I want it to get even colder. I like the beer best when it's almost frozen.
I know that there is an internal screw for adjusting the "preset" of the thermostat, but cannot figure out how to open the housing to get access to it.
The fridge is a brand new Whirlpool ARC1224.
Here's a pic of the housing:
If it only goes to 7, then you're not going to be able to get it to go to 8 just by opening the housing and tinkering in there.
If it's brand-new you might have to wait a few days for it even to get to its optimal "coolness" ... oh, and one other thing to keep in mind ... does it have a button for "humidity" (i.e. relative to ambient temperature then the fridge works slightly differently ... but this option might only be available in climates with extreme weather dry vs humid)
...
I know that there is an internal screw for adjusting the "preset" of the thermostat...
How (or where from) do you know this?
This housing might have 4 clasp-like sections on the edges, you can try GENTLY squeezing the top and bottom of the housing to see if you can un-hook the clasps from the wall proper. BTW the button probably just pops out if you pull on it (but be careful in case this is wrong) AND I don't know if you remove the button prior to the housing or after.
A fridge-repairman has confirmed that there is a screw for tuning the "attack-point" where the thermostat switches on/off.
I have seen the same on thermostats in electric ovens and other fridges with mechanical thermostats.
And what other devices do you have hooked up to the wall in the garage? (i.e. check the load to see if it's affecting the fridge(i.e. mebbe it aint gittin' enuff juice! (cap'n!)))
check the load to see if it's affecting the fridge(cap'n!)))
No problems with the voltage or anything.
I installed the electrical system in the garage myself.
Although I'm "only" a tv-repairman, I still know enough about these things to make them work.
My best frieds EX was always "super cooling" his beer in the fridge. Turning it down as far as it would go. It ended up knackering it as it kind of turned into a freezer and froze everything that was put in there after a day or two and it needed constant de-frosting.
She had to buy a new firdge earlier this year, so it's not something that she'd recomend to anyone ;-)
Oh, and I don't remember if I asked this ... did I, Oh, well, here goes in any case ... is your garage heated? (and along those lines is your fridge near a window ... how cold is it outside ... Heia Norge = cold BRRR!!! :p )
the dial will only go up so far.. even if you try to get into the housing the thermostat / sensor won't let it go higher and has a cut off point I bet , much like a washing machine etc.
my bosses son had a compressor blow in the fridge.. luckily no one was in the flat when it went.. so fridges you do have to be careful with.
just chuck the beer in a bucket of ice water when you need it, (metal one might be better ? ) if say it's for a party. or leave it outside covered if it's cold enough, unless norway is currently having a heatwave ?
but just buy some bags of ice like more do if it's for a party. dunno if them icepacks you use for freezer boxes would help.. or just one one of them with ice in perhaps .. if it's for 1 night .
in time the fridge gas / compressor does pack up and it doesn't keep temp also. so that affects things as well.
Comments
Checked fuse, that was OK, didn't know what else to try. Then after about 5 mins of looking at it, it started whirring. Turned out the bulb had gone. Was a huge relief.
Hope yours is something simple. Does it just not work?
What problem to be the seems, ossifer? (*hic*)
if its leaking water, it might be a build up of condensation, try turning it down.
other than that, have a look on youtube for fixes, or the whirlpool site, even a repair man over the phone might be able to give you a quote, they have done for me in the past.
I know that there is an internal screw for adjusting the "preset" of the thermostat, but I cannot figure out how to open the housing to get access to it.
The fridge is a brand new Whirlpool ARC1224.
Here's a pic of the housing:
If it only goes to 7, then you're not going to be able to get it to go to 8 just by opening the housing and tinkering in there.
If it's brand-new you might have to wait a few days for it even to get to its optimal "coolness" ... oh, and one other thing to keep in mind ... does it have a button for "humidity" (i.e. relative to ambient temperature then the fridge works slightly differently ... but this option might only be available in climates with extreme weather dry vs humid)
EDIT: Sorry, missed this part:
How (or where from) do you know this?
This housing might have 4 clasp-like sections on the edges, you can try GENTLY squeezing the top and bottom of the housing to see if you can un-hook the clasps from the wall proper. BTW the button probably just pops out if you pull on it (but be careful in case this is wrong) AND I don't know if you remove the button prior to the housing or after.
you need professional advice defo. you can break the motor if you over work it, we had one at work next to a dishwasher, the overwork fried it.
I have seen the same on thermostats in electric ovens and other fridges with mechanical thermostats.
Is your garage heated? Do you have a 15amp outlet vs how much is available in the garage (not wording this properly methinks)?
It's just a matter of 2-3 degrees.
I doubt that it will overload it.
The garage has 3-phase, 16 Amp.
And what other devices do you have hooked up to the wall in the garage? (i.e. check the load to see if it's affecting the fridge(i.e. mebbe it aint gittin' enuff juice! (cap'n!)))
No problems with the voltage or anything.
I installed the electrical system in the garage myself.
Although I'm "only" a tv-repairman, I still know enough about these things to make them work.
Problem found!
:razz:
Well, I'm out of ideas, aside from trying to squeeze the top and bottom of the housing to get it lose (try and pull the knob off first).
She had to buy a new firdge earlier this year, so it's not something that she'd recomend to anyone ;-)
the dial will only go up so far.. even if you try to get into the housing the thermostat / sensor won't let it go higher and has a cut off point I bet , much like a washing machine etc.
my bosses son had a compressor blow in the fridge.. luckily no one was in the flat when it went.. so fridges you do have to be careful with.
just chuck the beer in a bucket of ice water when you need it, (metal one might be better ? ) if say it's for a party. or leave it outside covered if it's cold enough, unless norway is currently having a heatwave ?
but just buy some bags of ice like more do if it's for a party. dunno if them icepacks you use for freezer boxes would help.. or just one one of them with ice in perhaps .. if it's for 1 night .
in time the fridge gas / compressor does pack up and it doesn't keep temp also. so that affects things as well.
it was cheaper to buy another one
throw away society, they don't mend motors, they just replace them, at a greater expense than a whole new unit